Hi guys! Hope you are all doing well. Apologies I haven’t been able to shoot and post outfits on here, as London has been rainy and grey, hopefully will that done over the weekend. Today Iam sharing how to draft a skirt pattern. This is basically the foundation, from this you can branch out to make different designs.
You will need:
-Chalk or fabric marker
-Pins or washers
-Matching Zip and thread
And of course your sewing machine and steam iron.
Note: I am working in inches
Measurements: Waist and hip measurement + waist to hip, hip to hem
Always fold your fabric right sides facing and draft on the wrong side of the fabric.
Fold fabric in half, smoothening any wrinkles to ensure the fabric is flat. Mark a straight line 1 inch along the fabric as shown in the picture, this is your waist line. From the waist line, insert your hip measurement and mark a straight line along as shown. Determine your desired length of skirt and mark a straight line as well.
So waist measurement is the smallest part of your waist, to make it easy bend your upper body to the side at the point where the waist curves in is your line. The figure you get, divide that by 4 + 1″
E.g 34/4=8.5+2. 1″ is for seam allowance, 1″ is for the dart.
Mark the waist figure from the fold.
With your tape measure at the hip line, measure the fullest part around the hips. The figure you get divide by 4 + 1″ seam allowance. Join waist to hip to hem (from the hip-line substract 1.5″ at the hem to make it tapered). Use the curve ruler if you are very curvy, as you see on the above picture. As I am not curvy I had to bring the skirt in. It didn’t fit well on the hips.
Follow the same step as the front piece. Except!(cut along the fold to create 2 separate pieces). Add 1″ for the zip allowance. So your back piece should have 3″allowance (side seam, dart and zip allowance)
Darts; Mark 4″from the fold and half an inch on both sides. To determine the length of the dart, mark 2″ above the hip-line and join the lines as in the picture. Cut, pin darts and sew.
From here, place the zip on the back pieces and notch where you want to zip to end and sew from this point downwards, don’t forget to back stitch. Pin the two sides, check fitting and adjust! If you happy, sew the sides, add waist band(optional), attach zip and zig-zag or serg the edges. Remember, always press the seams. I added a peplum to mine.
Hope you found these steps helpful! Xx